Spring Foraging: Jack-by-the hedge
By Fiona McGarry
I recently noticed a large plant springing up everywhere I looked on my allotment. I discovered that it’s garlic mustard – or Jack-by-the-hedge as it used to be known – and that it is good for eating during April and May. It is pretty prolific in the parks and gardens of Hastings, including Alexandra Park.
Garlic Mustard or Jack-by-the-Hedge
CREDIT: Fiona McGarry
Looking back at an old issue of HIP, I found that professional forager and wild food teacher, Geoff Dann, had written all about this invasive plant (FORAGING: Garlic Mustard HIP122) including where you can find it (if it isn’t taking over your garden). Geoff uses the chopped leaves to make a sauce “reminiscent of mint sauce, which makes a fine accompaniment to lamb or strongly flavoured fish (traditionally, salted fish)”.
After a bit of experimentation, I decided that in later spring I prefer the taste of the stems; they don’t have the bitterness of the leaves and the flavour is less robust, more like a cross between asparagus and broccoli. They make a great side dish, especially if served with a wild garlic butter and sesame seeds.
CREDIT: Fiona McGarry
Garlic Mustard shoots with wild garlic butter
1. Make the wild garlic butter by chopping up a handful of wild garlic leaves. Then mash up the butter with a fork and add the chopped garlic leaves (approximately 50g of garlic per 250g butter). You can use a food processor to make this easier if you don’t mind the size of the garlic being less uniform.
2. Make the butter into a sausage-shape and wrap in baking parchment or clingfilm. Chill in the fridge until needed.
3. Pick some garlic mustard stems and flowers or buds (about 12cm long). Wash them and remove the larger leaves.
4. Blanch the stems for two minutes in a saucepan of salted boiling water. You can allow a little longer for older, thicker stems or if you prefer your vegetables a bit softer.
5. Drain the water away and add a large knob of wild garlic butter to the saucepan.
6. Sauté gently and then serve with a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds.
• Check out the fantastic foraging recipes by Geoff Dann in earlier issues of HIP online You can also find a wide selection of recipes by many other food writers, including ideas for interesting and economical meals, store cupboard staples, seasonal bakes, cocktails, smoothies and a range of vegetarian and vegan dishes.
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