Now open: The Cove
Fairlight must be relieved and delighted to finally have its pub back in action – following its closure in 2016. The new owners of The Cove are Henry David, who has links with the area, and Olivia Loveridge, who previously worked in the charity sector. Henry is the chef and used to have a catering company.
They clearly put a lot of effort into updating and refurbishing the pub before its opening on 1 April. It was busy when we went to check it out, but the staff seemed assured and friendly – the atmosphere was wonderfully relaxed given that that it had been open less than two weeks.
Exterior and interior of The Cove; Venison Carpaccio and Focaccia
They say: “The Cove serves simple seasonal food with a story and a sense of humour. Venison is hunted by Arthur in his woods; other meat is supplied by Jamie down the road. Fish is from the channel; salad, greens, and whatever else is in season is grown 400 yards away. The dairy is in Northiam, and the egg layers all have names. We want to let the local produce shine through, serving classic dishes with a Sussex spin.”
On the night we went, venison was star of the show. They had sold out of doe steaks, but the venison burger and carpaccio were excellent (and surprisingly filling) and went well with the unusual, but very tasty, Rioja. The chips were agreed by our party to be “exceptional”, and we all enjoyed the superb plum crumble. There were also some interesting Bitterballen: cauliflower croquettes with a dab of mustard, Dutch style.
They have made the wise decision to start with a limited menu, which changes every day at the moment. As things settle, it will be good to see them develop their range of mains, especially vegetable and fish dishes. There’s plenty of potential and we are looking forward to coming back in the summer and sitting outside.
•The Cove is at 53 Waites Lane, Fairlight TN35 4AX. Regular opening hours are 12.00 – 11.00pm, Wednesday – Sunday.
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