This recipe is prepared over two days and includes candied flowers – if you’re feeling adventurous, give it a try!

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Matthew Kennard-Bowen

Asparagus season is upon us and should be rejoiced for the next two months. I’ve paired it here with crab and a browned butter hollandaise, as well as a few easy-to-gather items, some of which will be growing in yours or a neighbour’s garden.

Whilst the spider crabs, for the local fisherfolk of Hastings, can be a bit of a menace, they are a regular catch, and really should be celebrated, so I encourage us all to get down to the huts and utilise these beauties. At the very least it will help pay for some net repairs!

Serves 4 as a starter or light lunch

Ingredients

  • For the salad
  • 400g asparagus
  • 500g white crab meat
  • 4/5 mixed radishes
  • 100g of peppery leaves like watercress
  • 20g samphire
  • violet/primrose/pansy/garlic heads
  • 1 egg white
  • 1 tsp caster sugar
  • 1 tbsp mayonnaise
  • 1 lemon, zest and juice
  • a small amount of chopped garlic and ginger (optional)
  • a selection of herbs from dill/chervil/flatleaf parsley/sorrel/chive
  • Brown butter hollandaise
  • 1 tbsp white vinegar
  • A of pinch of salt
  • 1 egg yolk (use the whites for the crystalised flowers)
  • 125g butter
  • Green oil
  • herbs, blanched and frozen
  • vegetable oil

Method

This recipe requires preparation a day in advance

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Candied flowers

  • The day before, candy the flowers. I used primrose and three-cornered leek from the garden. Lightly whip the egg white, then add a splash of water and whisk again. It should be just frothing.
  • Using a small, clean paint brush, coat the flower petals on both sides and sprinkle thoroughly with the caster sugar. Gently tap off any excess and lay on some parchment paper overnight.

Green oil

  • Take your blanched and frozen herbs and place them in a blender with enough oil to cover and maybe a pinch of salt.
  • Blitz on high for 1 or 2 minutes.
  • Because you’re using frozen herbs, the oil will take on a whitish colour, but it prevents the herbs from turning brown and will recover a vibrant green as it comes back to room temperature.
  • Then pass the oil through a fine sieve/tea strainer and leave to slowly drip through. You can leave this overnight in a cool spot.

Crab meat salad

  • If buying fresh, just drop the spider crab claws into boiling water for 8 minutes, refresh in cold water, then crack and pick out the meat. Leave to cool. Alternatively, you can buy a dressed crab, or some picked white crab meat. You can, of course, buy some tinned crab lump meat. If using fresh, you’ll want to pick through the crab meat to make sure there’s no shell.
  • Start by finely chopping your herbs, fold into the mayonnaise with the zest of a lemon and a small squeeze of juice, add your crab meat, optional garlic and ginger, and season to taste.
  • Thinly slice your mixed radishes, pick some peppery leaves and wash the samphire.

Hollandaise sauce

  • For the hollandaise you will need to brown the butter over a medium heat for around 5 minutes until it takes on a biscuity smell.
  • Remove from the heat and place into a jug for pouring.
  • Heat some water in a pan and while it simmers, place a bowl over the top with a tablespoon of white vinegar and a pinch of salt. When the vinegar has warmed, drop in the egg yolk and whisk until it becomes light and frothy.
  • Keep an eye out in case it overcooks. You can remove it from the heat and add a small splash of the hot water from the pan if it starts to dry out.
  • Remove the whisked egg from the heat, placing it on a folded tea towel to prevent any slipping, and very slowly pour in the browned butter, in a thin stream, while whisking continuously until the butter is used up.
  • Cover and leave close to the stove for warmth.

Asparagus

Blanch the trimmed asparagus in lightly salted water for 2 minutes, drain and ready your serving plates.

To serve

Place your asparagus on serving plates, dollop around your dressed crab meat, place your leaves, radish and samphire, then coat everything in the hollandaise and garnish with your flowers, a few drops of your herb oil and any other herbs that remain.

Chef recommendation

Optional side of Jersey royal potatoes with salt flakes for dredging through the hollandaise makes a more substantial meal!

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