Will You Walk into My Parlour?
By Fiona McGarry
Nowadays, we may associate a ‘parlour’ with funerals, beauty, ice cream or even milking cows. Luckily, this restaurant is named more for its more traditional meaning of “a reception room or public space” (Collins dictionary); somewhere set aside for conversation and used for formal or social occasions, and sometimes for displaying art and treasured possessions.
It’s true, Parlour takes up part of the calm and elegant space of St Leonards’ premiere and most eclectic arts venue – the Kino-Teatr, but it lacks the formality and dimness of a Victorian parlour; the atmosphere manages to be bright and yet warm and intimate.
CREDIT: Dave Young
We had previously visited for brunch (the scrambled eggs are to die for). The relaxed, lazy Sunday morning vibe is especially strong when there is live music along with the Sunday papers, and there is a slightly excited buzz of conversation as people tuck into a cheeky morning beer or mimosa with their kedgeree. But I preferred our recent evening visit – the coppery glow of the lighting made it feel more intimate, the staff were more attentive and organised, and the food was the main focus.
Parlour’s proprietor and chef is Claire Rooney, someone of enormous energy who has a background in both film catering and cooking wonderful dishes for the wealthy, including Roman Abramovich, Al Fayed and the Chelsea Football Team. Her aim is to create a community family space where everyone is welcome.
The wide-ranging menu affirms this desire to please a range of customers. As well as the classic French favourites like Moules Marinieres, there are notable Spanish influences such as Croquettas, reflecting Claire’s five-year sojourn in Valencia, where she had a restaurant. There’s also a nod to Asia with kedgeree, Japanese tempura and a Korean noodle salad. On top of that there are plenty of options for vegans, as well as a good selection of seasonal fish and vegetables.
CREDIT: Fiona McGarry
My companion chose calamari for a starter, and I had the Tempura Nori Tofu, which came with a delicious pickled ginger cucumber salad. They were both quite substantial despite the delicate, crispy batter and would have sufficed for a light meal.
My partner was eager for comfort food and ordered the Cider and Apple Slow Cooked Pig’s Cheeks which fitted the bill perfectly for a cold winter’s evening. The soft and succulent cheeks came on a bed of silky, rich mash and were topped with asparagus. I had the roasted sea bass with garlic white bean caldo and peppers – made really hearty by the addition of crispy chorizo balls – a real taste of Spain.
I thought I wouldn’t manage to eat any pudding but ended up sharing my companion’s Dark Choc Torte. It would have been rude not to. Like Parlour itself, it was shiny, sophisticated, indulgent and satisfying.
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